Cathedral Rocks are among the best-known rock formations in the Valley -- and offer the greatest number of climbing opportunities in one place. Virtually all of the climbing that has been done at Lost Valley over the years has been done on these faces.

The rocks are located at the southeastern corner of the Valley, just to the south of the Indian Road. There are three man faces running basically north-south. We have designated them Lower, Middle, and Upper Cathedral Rocks, beginning with the lowest face, closest to camp and moving east towards the canyon. Like some many places around Lost Valley, these rocks have passed under a variety of names. In the 1970s they were sometimes called Warner Rocks -- after Warner Hot Springs, where the Indian Road eventually leads -- and less frequently, Pipe Organ Rocks. But in recent years the name Cathedral Rocks -- reflecting the rocks’ many high faces -- has seen the most use, and so we will use it here.

All of these routes are on the west faces of these outcroppings, facing the Valley. They range from knobby faces to tight dihedrals. The tops of all three outcroppings can be reached by walking up their north ends.

1. The Route (F 4). In selecting names for the climbs around Lost Valley, we tried to rely on natural features and landmarks; but this old, obvious route has clearly been the route for many Lost Valley climbers. The first ascent is unknown -- dating well before 1970 -- as are the number of ascents -- including every climbing class in 1983. This is perhaps the only route in Lost Valley that is now showing “wear” as repeated hands and feet have knocked loose materials away. The Route begins from a small clearing at the center of the face, just to the right of the “Guitar” (see #4). The first 20 feet or so is a simple jam-crack. Passing to the left of two ledges the crack narrows and more hand and foot holds present themselves on the knobby face. The last few moves bring you back into the crack before reaching the summit, some 60 feet up. Two bolt hangers (installed in 1983 for the Climbing Program) and a piton of uncertain vintage are positioned at the top. The hangers were used for rappelling practice by our climbing classes rather than walking down to the left.

2. Cathedral Dihedral (F 5). Located 10-15 feet to the right of The Route (#1), the alliterative name of Cathedral Dihedral both locates and describes this slightly over-hanging, left-facing route. There are no signs of earlier ascents, but it seems possible they were made before 1980, when John Nordenstam and Louis Calderon went up it. The first section of the route is a lay-back up the over-hanging dihedral to either of two ledges. From here, two routes to the top exist: 1) continuing directly up the dihedral (F 6), or 2) traversing to the right of the main dihedral and onto the face (F 5). Both variations reach the top via a jam-crack.

3. Holy Moss Buckets (F 5). This name is probably best understood as an exclamation -- though it carries with it a fair description of this climb’s features. As with most all of the climbs included here, the date for the first ascent is problematical, but the first known to use was by Leroy Nordenstam in 1983. The route begins eight feet to the left of the “Guitar” in a prominent jam-crack. As you continue up, there are “buckets” (holes) with flaring edges and an appropriate amount of moss -- both of which add difficulty to this climb. About 30 feet up there is a shallow bowl where The Guitar (# 4) joins from the right. From here the route leads into a narrow slot formed by two facing dihedrals. Just below the summit there is a bulging overhang. This is the crux of the route. Climbing over it relies mostly on friction, patience, and perseverance.

4. The Guitar (F 4). This route draws its name from the unusual (and almost unattached) rock formation at its base, resembling an upside-down guitar*. No early ascents are known to us. The route passes directly up the “body” of the guitar and follows a crack which curves up to the left slightly, towards a shallow bowl some 30 feet up. The crack is interspersed with deep holes offering firm holds for hands and feet. From the bowl, the route joins Holy Moss Buckets (#3) in climbing up the slot and over the overhang to the top.

[* Sad to report, in recent years, the guitar rock has been broken off. -- PB, 2002]

1. The Trough (F 3). This is one of two routes here that follow troughs or “slots” up the western face of the rock. It was climbed by John Nordenstam as early as 1980. It begins towards the center of the face, where a large (five-foot high) rock points dramatically up the climb. The route leads straight up the rock, never leaving the trough or its holds.

2. The Trough II (F 3). This second trough is 15 feet to the right of the first; and like the first, leads directly up a trough with jam-cracks for support. Pressing out on either side of these slots will provide extra support during these climbs.

3. Free Fall Face (F 4). Immediately to the left of the Trough (#1) is a sloping face littered with knobs and hand-holds which we have dubbed Free Fall Face. The face offers a myriad of route possibilities through different combinations of holds. Although slightly more difficult at the top, the route is a good exercise in face climbing without any undue hazards.

4. South of the Slot (F 4). Between the two troughs (#’s 1 and 2) -- and thereby south of the slot -- is a narrow face climb. The main route here leads up a thin jam crack.

1. Not Holds (F 6). At the center of the line of turrets that stands above the main ridge of Upper Cathedral Rock is a small tree. Just to the right of it is the route Louis Calderon named Not Holds in 1980. In return, he received three stitches from his climb -- the first ascent known to us. The route is a delicate face climb, with cracks to either side. About eight feet up there is about a three-inch wide horizontal crack that offers the best hold on the route. The last section is slightly rounded to the top.

2. High Point. On the southern end of Upper Cathedral Rock, at its highest point, are at least two more possible routes, both untried and unnamed. The first is an aid climb up a diagonal crack. The second is a route up a hanging dihedral which flares out at the edges (probably F 6 or more).

There are numerous other short (under ten feet) climbs in and around all three sections of Cathedral Rocks, but these do not warrant separate listings. These are mostly jam-cracks, but often in poor quality rock. Some of these are on the eastern faces of the outcroppings.