Lost Valley Trail3.5 miles to the Pacific Crest Trail. Steep in The Lost Valley Trail was originally cut by the Bergman family in 1898, though portions of it may be older still. The Bergmans, a pioneer Aguanga cattle ranching family, had just purchased Lost Valley and cut the trail in from Chihuahua Valley to bring their cattle in and out of Lost Valley. The Bergmans used Lost Valley for summer grazing for almost 60 years, sometimes keeping as many as 200 head in the valley. Until the 1950’s they all came in and out over the Lost Valley Trail. The Lost Valley Trail was also the trail Arlie Bergman used when he packed in the materials to build his homestead cabin in 1915 (which still stands near the Shotgun Range). Arlie’s nine-year-old nephew, Walt Bergman, helped with those pack trips. More than 75 years later he recalled: “We’d have two sheets of galvanized iron on each burro and it’d be sticking out two or three feet behind them and two or three feet ahead of them. So I helped to guide those burros around the corners...they weren’t about to go in the direction that they couldn’t see.” The Lost Valley Trail had quite a reputation among the old timers. Evelyn “Ma” Smith (1897-1988), who lived in the Warner Ranch area for many years, once recalled: “It was an awful hard place to get in in the early days when they went in with the cattle. It was nothing but boulders, you didn’t see any dirt. I went over the trail [and] I said “never again!” I just held my breath.” After the completion of the Old Road from Chihuahua Valley in the early 1950s the Lost Valley Trail fell into disuse. By the 1970s most of it existed only as a dotted line on old topographical maps. In 1977 Irvine Commissioners Ralph Nordstrom and Mark Rodgers became interested in re-blazing the old trail. Using map and compass, Nordstrom managed to locate much of the trail, and work began to mark and rebuild it. The original trail went out past Combs Camp into Chihuahua Valley. The modern trail grows faint after crossing the ridge out of Lost Valley, and disappears after it meet the Pacific Crest Trail. As work progressed on reopening the Lost Valley Trail in 1977, Nordstrom and Rodgers became interested in trying to cut a new trail across to the rocky mountain face to the north known in camp lore as “Flame-Around-The-Ankles” mountain. Years earlier, Nordstrom had used the mountain as the setting for his weekly campfire story--a mock Indian legend about an evil spirit that was finally trapped behind the rocky peak. The story was popular with campers, and the name stuck. From the top of the ridge (mile 1.8) they began a new trail towards the peak. After a little work, Rodgers says, they decided “it was probably possible [to get there], but it was more than we wanted to do in the summer.” Instead, they made for a small rocky peak just above the trail. They dubbed it Mt. Birkenstock, after the brand of natural sandals that Rodgers was fond of wearing. Despite rumors to the contrary, Rodgers maintains that “nobody really wore Birkenstocks” when out on the trail. The first group reach the top of the 5,440-foot peak in August of 1978 and additional work on the Lost Valley Trail and the Birkenstock cut-off was done that summer. The trailhead is located at the north end of the dam at the bottom of Agua Caliente Lake. As the road crosses the dam it forks, and the right fork is signed as the start of the Lost Valley Trail. 0.0 Trailhead (signed). The road quickly degenerates into a trail. A recent by-pass now leads you up to the right over a small rise, then down to meet the old trail just above Sycamore Creek. 0.25 Sycamore Creek enters from the right, the first creek crossing. Head down across the creek, then up as the trail begins to follow the main creek upstream along its right (north) bank.
0.6 The main trail drops down to the junction of two creeks. Stick with the right fork and continue paralleling the creek along the right bank. 0.75 As the bank get steep, the trail drops down into the creekbed for about ten feet then comes out to the right in a small grassy meadow. Continue upstream. 0.82 As the trail starts up a small canyon it drops down beside the creek (and sometimes in it for a step or two). The climb starts to get a little steeper. 0.9 The trail crosses the creek to your left, then continues on up the opposite bank. The first switchback is just above here. 0.95 The trail crosses back across the creek to the other side and continues to parallel it. 1.0 The trail crosses to the left (south) side of the creek at Swiss Cow Crossing. The trail continues up about ten feet to a long single switchback. 1.1 Top of the first saddle. Bear right across the top, then after about 20 feet the trail turns down to the right. You’ll get your first good views back across the valley along this stretch of the trail. 1.2 As you pass a large boulder on your left, head straight on into the trees, then bear left and continue uphill. Directly behind you as you enter the trees is a good view of Hot Springs Mountain and the old Forest Service fire lookout tower (now abandoned). 1.4 A few feet up the slope, above the present trail, is an old piece of trail marked with a small wooden sign which reads “2.5”. The best guess is that this was the turn around point for five-mile hikes leaving what is now Camp Grace in the mid-1960s. At the corner up ahead, a little seep sometimes flows. Even when there is no water visible, the grass is always a little greener here. The trail then turns to the left and follows the creek (on your right) on up. This is a very old stretch of trail through here. 1.6 At the top of the rise, bear right. 1.7 By turning around, you can get your last good view of the valley from here. 1.8 Junction with the trail to Mt. Birkenstock (signed).
1.8 The Lost Valley Trail continues over the ridge and down into the next valley --apparently called the Little Rock Valley by the old timers. The trail from this point is much fainter, and eroded in spots; but even if you lose the trail, your ultimate goal -- the Pacific Crest Trail -- is almost always in sight on the next ridge. 1.92 As the creek turns to the left, cross it and follow along on its right bank. As you drop down from the ridge you begin to get into some trees again. In some places along here the old trail is worn in quite deeply. 1.95 Cross the creek to your left and continue ahead and over an old fallen tree. The trail bears to the right down into an open area. The trail continues to cross the creek several more times, but always parallels it on one side or the other. 2.15 Bouchard Meadow, a small grassy spot under the oaks, makes a good resting place or overnight camping spot (but remember, no fires). The Bergmans apparently called this area the “Little Rock Valley”. 2.2 The trail bears to the right, following the creek up a small canyon. The creekbed will be on your left. 2.6 The trail reaches the top of a rise, then drops back down, still following the creek. Most of the trees in this valley are pines, but there are a few oak trees. 2.8 The Pacific Crest Trail is visible ahead. The old trail is clearly visible in spots. 3.0 The trail begins to drop again, and the brush gets thicker. 3.1 The trail turns up to the right, and then turns to the left through an opening in the thick chaparral. The trail continues another .1 mile, then turns to the right through thick, thorny deerbrush on either side. 3.5 Junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. From here it is about three miles north (right) to the Lost Valley Road. From there, it is 1.2 miles to the Old Road, the quickest route back to camp. |
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